by sea by shore

Paris Landing Marina MM 66

Nelson Miller, Zyg Durski and I departed

from Paris Landing State Park Marina at 9.30

a.m. Wednesday August 5th.  It was my birthday

week and it was to be a beauty.

The one thing Nelson told me before departing was that I had to have a bimini.  A month earlier I ordered a Sailrite bimini Kit. We mounted the bimini frame in the house and prepared to make a pattern. It took a month of watching videos, using friends’ Sailrite machines and long hard work from Sue. But we got her done with special thanks to Joe Ballard and Dave Brandon.

We watched the weather forecast and it showed highs in the 80’s lows in the 60’s with winds from the north. On short notice we decided the weather window was perfect. So two days before departure Zyg and I drove from Nashville to Paris Landing to install the bimini. Perfect installation and looked beautiful.

The day before leaving Nelson and I drove from Nashville to Pickwick Marina to drop off a car. Sue was in NY but would have loved to meet us. One other precaution I had taken was to physically measure my mast height. I was confident it was 50′. This would become very important information.

We had three forms of navigation aboard and all turned out important: Army Corp of Engineers Charts (old), paper GPS maps/charts of Kentucky Lake and Navionics.

Wednesday, August 5, 2020

MM 66 Paris Landing State Park Marina

We topped off with fuel and left the dock at 9.30 a.m. Zyg brought with him the experience of sailing the Great Loop single handed. A font of wisdom. Nelson brought years of sailing experience, cigars and Rusty Nail fixins.

We checked pool level and it was down 2 feet (good to know for calculating bridge height), cast off and prepared the decks. It was a beautiful morning to depart on an adventure.

We each had sailed together for 3 weeks from Midland, Ontario up Georgian Bay to North Channel and finally to Mackinac Island, so we had history and experience together.

We cleared our first bridge upon leaving at Hwy 79 with 58′ feet of clearance.

It was a big, wide open Tennessee River with not a boat in sight.

We checked the discharge rate at Pickwick Dam to try and anticipate the current and it was predicted to generate 28,000 cubic feet per inch. I had thought our average speed would be 6 but we stayed steady at 6.9 mph.

We got settled in, lit up cigars, pulled out the bimini and enjoyed the day.  We cruised by Pebble Isle Marina MM 96. Nathan Bedford Forrest State Park MM100 and headed for Hickman Lockman Bridge Hwy 70, MM 100.5.

The Louisville and Nashville Railway Lift Bridge next to the Hwy 70 Hickman-Lockhart motorway bridge has a closed clearance of 24.6 feet at normal pool. When the bridge is lifted and open, the clearance is 62.6 feet. We called on VHF  but no answer. When we arrived, the bridge was in the open position. This may be the new normal as a result of Covid-19 but it could be that we were just lucky and arrived when the bridge just happened to be open.

Birdsong Marina was at MM 103.5  but I had a bad impression of it having researched it earlier. We attempted an anchorage at a beautiful cove that Navionics showed deep enough but we bumped the bottom three times and that was enough. We sailed on to Cuba Landing. Better than expected for our first day.

We had cocktails and cigars while waiting for the chicken to thaw. I recently installed a new Engle refrigerator and it did too good a job. Good anchorage except near interstate. No one here.

Venus, Mars, Pluto, Saturn visible.

MM115    Total leg 51 miles

Thursday, August 6th, 2020

We awoke to a setting moon and smiling faces.

We then prepared bacon and eggs, strong coffee and  enjoyed a beautiful cool morning. We determined to set sail for Swallow Bluff 53.8 miles away.

We cleared the I-40 bridge at 64′  MM 116 .

Perryville Marina MM134

Alvin York Bridge at MM135

Mermaid Marina MM140

A bridge that did NOT show on an OLD chart appeared. MM161.5

Riverside Marina MM162

It was only 4.30 p.m. and we considered going on to Wolf Island but it was 3 hours away so we dropped anchor and it was beautiful. Quiet. Sleepy waters. Well not really.

Zyg worked on securing a ladder to mid ship and I put out a rope ladder on the stern.

Confident Zyg’s ladder would hold, I jumped in. In a split second I was at the stern and moving fast in the current. I swam vigorously to the rope ladder and held on!!! Had I not I would have been swept away to a distant shore.

Nelson threw me a line and I pulled my way back to mid-ship and climbed back aboard. We decided no more swimming. I had a history of diving into challenging waters. Pickwick was dumping water and the current was deceiving.

Hamburgers and baked beans for dinner.

Rusty Nails and exquisite Black and Tan cigars were in order after dinner.

And then things got magnificent. We put on a Canadian radio station with a French announcer and the music was classical and grand.

At one point Zyg shared he had conducted the piece of music playing…the last 7 words of Christ.

The anchor held through the night. Beautiful stars and planets.

Zyg slept out on the deck.

Friday, August 7, 2020

We departed early excited to get to Pickwick. There was a slight fog on the water and conversation embarked on the origins of fog based on dew points and temperature.

We passed by Saltito.

Hookers Bend MM 179

Hwy 64 Bridge MM190    

Savannah

Wolf Island MM 192.7

Pittsburg Landing

Shiloh MM 198

Pickwick Lock and Dam MM 206

Our approach was easy and we raised John the Lockmaster on VHF Channel 16.

He gave us a blast to let us know is was emptying lock and then a horn and green light to  enter in.

The water started to dump from lock, the gigantic doors opened and in we went. Zyg on the bow poling off and Nelson on mid-ship with loop for Bollard #5.

We celebrated we had made the trip safely. But we all knew we were not there yet.

As we were raised up and the doors opening, the Lockmaster asked “what is your mast height”? 50′ feet I said. Lockmaster ” the bridge has a clearance of 52′ but there is netting hanging down to 48′. I asked what I was supposed to do if I cannot clear. He replied, ” I will hold the lock open and you can go back.”

I am confident my height is 50′ but it had not been put to the test. Lockmaster told us the pool was at normal level.

My mouth was dry and adrenaline charged.

I remembered to say a prayer.

We found a spot to the far left where we did not see netting. I slowed Shadow to a crawl.

We pulled the bimini back so I could see the bridge. I tell the men I will not look up, they will have to do the looking. Harbormaster is watching on  his monitor.

If we touch I have to reverse course quick.

Slowly we crawl under the bridge. We cleared it. Beautiful Pickwick Lake appeared before our eyes. Paradise.

We docked at Pickwick Landing State Park at 1.15 pm, slip 53. MM 207

Total engine hours-23

Avg rpm 2500

Avg speed 6.7 mp

Total trip 143 miles

Attached is the Local Notice to Mariners for the Tombigbee Waterway in Alabama (Alabama lnm0831g2020.pdf) fot review. Page 40 is of special interest as it lists the lock closures currently in effect.

Link to LNM    http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=lnmMain  They are published once a week.

Paris Landing to Pickwick leg 3 complete on the journey to Mobile Bay and beyond.

Step One: Determine the size of your power needs.

Making good decisions requires lots of research from personal and internet sources. Unfortunately at my sailing club only 6 people had solar on their boats and only a few seemed properly mounted.

One person I thought offered a lot of good advice was Will Prowse with DIY Solar Power on Youtube. Based upon many of his recommendations I made the following choices.

First I determined how much power I would need to generate. I upgraded all Navigation and interior lights to LED. I wanted a freezer/refrigerator and pumps for water and bilge. That was about it. I calculated my energy needs to be 30 amps per day.

Step Two: Batteries

I purchased 2 Trojan T105 6 Volt lead acid  batteries otherwise known as flooded batteries (golf cart batteries) with a combined 20ah rating of 240 amps. Golf cart batteries excel above traditional batteries because they can be recharged from half empty (you never want to discharge below 50% capacity with lead acid) over 1200 times where as standard batteries only 150 times. Battery marketing of energy output is purposely confusing. You want a deep cycle battery and amp hours measured in 20 hour ratings.  I wired the Trojan 6V batteries in series to make 12 votls and added in the 12v starter battery (already owned)  in parallel. $135 ea. Total $270

Step Three: Solar Panels

Next I selected a Rich 100 watt poly solar panel. It was 2’x3′ weighing about 20lbs. In good sunlight for 5 hours it should generate 500 watts or (500/12) or 41 amps.

I failed to order the wire to connect panel to controller but later rectified.

Cost $89

Step Four: MPPT Controller

I purchased a 30 amp MTTP controller by EPever with separate digital display. The MT50 digital display is a must.

Cost $130

Step 5: Inverter

I purchased a 1200 Watt invertor by Giandel. Great for charging computers, tool batteries or almost anything AC.

Cost: $189

Step Six: Mounting the Solar Panel

Then I had to figure out how to mount the solar panel. This may have been the hardest part. Options ranged from anodized aluminum mounts for $389 to $100. One friend spent over $1500 to mount to poles.

I wanted a mount that was adjustable depending on sun direction and angle.

I noticed a local roofer was always placing TV satellite dishes in the trash.

I pulled one out of the dumpster, broke it down and realized it could work. Slightly intimidated, I took all the parts to a local machine shop to put together. After days of delay I went back to pick it up and determined to do it myself.

I used a grinder to cut off an unwanted part. My first time but it was easy. I tested on my back porch to see if it would work.

Then I cut 2 aluminum angle bars to size and drilled holes to mount the dish head to bars and bars to solar panel frame.

Discovering how to mount to boat again became problematic. I was considering a 5′ pole and trying to stabilize it.

Then I was walking the dock and saw a satellite dish on a boat.

Final issue was to address different metals and the effects from salt air.

Steel is painted so it will not rust. Solar panel frame is anodized aluminum so it will not oxidize. Bracing is aluminum that will oxidize but not deteriorate.

I used stainless steel bolts, nuts, washers.

Total Cost: $25 for stainless steel parts.

Step Seven: Run wiring 

Wires to solar panel are all plug and play. They ran in side the tube holding solar panel and below deck to batteries. From Solar panel to Controller was not hard but make sure bare wires are securely fitted.

Step Eight: Mount Controller

Make sure it is in a dry place. The plug and play MT50 has plenty of wire to move to Nav Station.

Step Nine: Hook it all up

Program controller to your specific battery type: Flooded, AGM, Lithium. You should see solar panel icon on left bringing in Voltage/Amps, then moving to the right the battery charge icon and status and to the far right is the load icon if your want to hook up a load like a refrigerator that will turn on and off if battery charge gets low.

Step Ten: 

Get your self a new Engle refrigerator and enjoy a cold beverage. $890 (price not factored)

CJ Pierce, Owen Hayes and I sailed from Carrabelle to Panama City with a little work on the bottom and installing thru hull transducer.

We departed Carrabelle and anchored our first night off Dog Island with a spectacular sunset with a nod to the sun gods. Along with good eats.

We set sail the next day for Apalachicola.

Owen and I hitched hiked into town and met some interesting characters.

From there we took the innercostal over to Port St. Joe and met some more interesting characters.

Final leg we sailed into Panama City.

May 17,2020

Sue and I with Max arrived at Paris Landing Saturday afternoon. We cleaned and organized. Getting the mold off was needed. Looked like a new coat of paint. I wired anchor light only to wait to see if worked. Marina’s are re-opening due to Covid virus. Weird times.

It always seems there is a little anxt about anchoring out. No comforts of home. Unknown places. But that is the very thing that makes it special. Charting a course and finding a good anchorage. Panther Bay is located south of Paris Landing about 5 miles.      .

Temp was 80 with light winds out of the south. We decided to anchor out so off we went to Panther Cove. iPad w Navionics guided us in perfectly. Dropped anchor in 12’ of water. Initially there were a few boats but alas we were left alone. We grilled corn on the cob, steaks and a salad. Propane ran out but retrieved a hidden bottle.

Cracked open a bottle of great champagne. Anchor light came on as hoped. Music. Fan working in V-birth. No cell service. Wonderful being w Sue. We awoke at 2 am, chuckled about the tight space and held each other tight. Panther cove is beautiful. No noise or lights.

Awoke this morning and made a cup of coffee. Washed dishes. Read a Tristan Jones book. One of my favorite sailing writers. 

Looking forward to spending several days out at a time. Staying on the hook is better than tied up at the dock.

On our way back to the marina the rain and wind picked up.

Enveloped in green, floating on water. Sounds of hungry fish peering above. Chirps, whistles, echoes of the unknown. Overcast skies tell of coming rain.

What could be better, sipping hot coffee watching the eagles soar.

Sue and Max both whom, I adore.

My son Robbie and I traveled to Paris, TN where my Morgan 36 is in a slip. It was a cold morning around 25 degrees.

We were going to install a new cabin sole with a 10′ 3/4″ 4×8 sheet of Teak and Holly. But first we stopped into a local coffee shop and asked it there happened to be an Eiffel Tower in Paris.

We  purchased the Teak & Holly marine grade plywood from Tommy at Teak World in Lebanon, TN.

Next we formed a pattern out of plywood and glued sticks for accurate cuts.

Then we applied West Systems epoxy and several coats of varnish.

Travel with us in two 36 foot sailboats from Harbor Island Yacht Club, through downtown Nashville, Clarksville and on to Green Turtle Bay Kentucky. We experienced fog, fall colors, locks and bridges, migrating white pelicans and bald eagles.

11/24/2019

Owen Hayes text me on Fri Nov 8, 2019 to see if I wanted to crew on a trip from Mobile Bay to Miami departing on Nov 15-23. Within 7 minutes I said yes. We were sailing out on a 41′ Catamaran. The owner and our captain, Perry Phillips was an ASA instructor from Wisconsin.

Offshore sailing from Mobile Bay to Miami

Nov 14th. Thursday. The weather was cold into the 20’s. We left in the morning and arrived Mobile Bay, Dog River Marina that night and spent the night on the boat on the hard. I meet dock hand who remembered my friend Zyg Dirski. We ate dinner at all you can eat buffet. Purchased some Captain Morgan Special reserve and went to bed. Sun Spirit was splashed the next day.

Nov 15th Friday.

We provisioned the boat and waited for new batteries which did arrive that afternoon.

My Nikon lens was clouded from a spilled water bottle. We put the lens in rice and I purchased a new Nikon lens 55-300.

I had been really wanting a new  lens.

Later Owen and I walked the docks looking at boats and wound up at the Mobile Bay Yacht Club who were glad to have us for drinks and dinner. Very civilized and nice.

I got the Ron White treatment and one member had a Ron White DVD.

Nov 16th Saturday. We departed first light with a beautiful sunrise under cold and windy conditions but our spirits were high. Insulated underwear and Foul weather gear. 4-5 hours to exit Mobile Bay. See water change from brown to Blue. Dolphins.
      

I knew I would like Offshore sailing because every time I saw open water I wanted to go! Mobile Bay was brown and commercial so not very romantic. We motored with big ships and finally the water turned from brown to blue.

We were taking a direct route to Miami which was a 622 NM trip. The furthest and longest I had been offshore.

I did not start with any seasickness medicine but later that day I would want it.

Midway choppy seas. 20 k winds. Boat bouncing. Cannot smile off nausea. Voice says take the pill or patch. Did not want to succumb. Nausea set in. Been in layers of clothes. Cold. Dirty. Tired. No dinner. No peace. Retire at 8.30 for early morning watch. 20 k winds. Beautiful moon rise like a liquid drop football.

Nov 17th. Sunday.   Much better and warmer. Towel bath. Fresh clothes. Good breakfast. Winds 10k. Choppy seas. A little nausea but better. Think I will not do a long passage again. See whale spout. Owen makes a excellent roast using meat thermometer. Go to bed at 9.30 and get up at 3 for watch.

Nov 18th. Monday. Glorious!!!  Perry is on watch. Ships to port. First ones we see. Now just me. Beautiful clouds. Dolphins before sunrise. Pure joy alone on open sea. Dig it. Off the coast of Tampa. Sailing alone.

Listening to Coast Guard in preparation to rescue sinking fishing vessel and giving plans to nearby boat on how to prepare rescue.

Nov 19th. Tuesday or 6pm to tip of Florida.

Surprising emotional to get the first signal in days

Anchored 2 miles offshore of everglades. Beautiful sunset. Cocktails. See strange sighting of twinkling stars moving in formation. Pam later tells me about Unicorn meteor shower.

Anchor 2 miles off Cape Sable where we can see lights to Key West and Marco Island.

Nov 20th. Wednesday

Arrive at sunset to anchor at Key Largo at Gilbert’s. A giant Tiki Hut. Have stone crab.

Nov 21st. Thursday

Arrive at Dinner Key Marina on get on mooring ball. Get a hot shower. Hamburgers for dinner.

Nelson Miller and I departed Nashville but before we even left ground I had bitten my tongue, Zyg Durski called to say he lost his wallet and could not pick us up at the airport and Nelson had to book a car in Toronto. As we waiting to board there came an announcement for Nelson Miller. Turns out he had left his wallet on a bench and was turned in. So our start was suspicious.

YouTube Playlist of entire voyage.

The Toronto airport had long long lines to customs but it was all done with Kiosks and we never saw a customs agent. We rented a car and drove to Midland Ontario. It was great to see Zyg who had just completed the Trent Severn waterway with 45 locks by himself.

I was very surprised with the beautiful marina, boats and great people.

Bayport Marina in Midland Ontario